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Saturday, April 28, 2012


The very best way to clean your baseball cap is by buying a plastic frame that holds the hat in it's shape.  They sell these at any department store. Then putting it through a wash cycle in your dishwasher.

You can use the dish washing liquid, it will clean it just fine.  I wouldn't put it in with the dishes though.  I would usually let the hat air dry afterwards, as it might not fare so well in the tumble dryer.  You could use clothes soap but it if it doesn't rinse well you may end up washing your dishes in clothes soap.  I suppose that wouldn't hurt anything but I personally wouldn't do it.

Let me know if you like this tip - CLICK BELOW - OR COMMENT BELOW 

Monday, April 23, 2012


I was recently asked in the forum how to get rid of gophers.
There are many ways to get rid of these pesky rodents.   But they aren't usually the only rodent that is giving you problems.  Mice, rabbits, groundhogs, moles, and even squirrels cause all kinds of damage to your home, lawn , and garden. There are  many wives tales and old, sometimes, proven methods.

I've heard of putting a hose from a tail pipe of a vehicle into the hole of a groundhog or other subterranean dweller. This will probably kill the rodent in it's den but not the nicest way to get rid of them, but it would probably work.  

Cayenne pepper is supposed to repel rodents of all kinds, and so are marigold flowers.  It is said that if you plant marigolds in and around your garden it will keep the rabbits and groundhogs out.  This method actually worked for me.

Moth balls are supposed to repel them also, but in my trial with them all that happens when you use this method is, they just dig another hole and do not leave.  

 There are many products out on the market to help repel these critters.  There are poisons, traps, smoke bombs, plants that they do not like, and I've even heard of giving them juicy fruit gum which messes up their insides and kills them very slowly - not very humane. Of course you could always use my favorite method of the old trusty AR-15.

But the very best method I have found is spreading castor oil  granules over the affected area.   There is a new product out that is mixed corn cob, castor oil and soap.  It is even non toxic, so it won't hurt pets or kids.  The rodents cannot stand the smell of castor oil or the soap that is mixed in with it.  It last a long time before needing to be re-applied because it is oil after all.  I'm not sure who makes it but it works well.  There is a strategy to it though, using a broadcast spreader, first spread it over the heavily trafficked area.  After a day or so spread it over the next section of your lawn, and a couple days later the next and so on until you drive the critters away from your property.

Your neighbors won't appreciate this but, oh well.

Hope this helps.


Saturday, April 21, 2012


If you have a picture of an object or animal you would like turned into a custom work of art I can create one for you.  I create highly detailed, professionally hand crafted animal, object, or pet portraits in 
Prisma Color© - Colored Pencil… 

Pictured below is an example of my work entitled - ALERTED MOTHER DEER.
Click the image to view larger size.


I work off of your own favorite photographs! All photographs will be returned to you undamaged after the work is completed.  I prefer to work on black acid free heavy weight paper, but I will leave the paper color up to you as one of the options.

Each piece is created by hand, by me so each piece is one of a kind, had-crafted, and created especially for you. 

Prices will vary with size, type, medium used, pose, and backgrounds. All of the detail will be agreed upon by both parties (You and I) before any commitments are made by either party.

For more detailed information, sizes and prices, please contact me at colemancris@gmail.com

Capture a timeless moment of your favorite nature photo, tractor, truck, car, beloved pet, etc. with a lifelike, hand-drawn Colored Pencil Portrait from your photograph. Sorry I do not do people.

Portrait will be created using high quality Prisma Color© Pencils on acid free, heavy weight preferably black paper. A fixative will be sprayed on the surface to preserve and protect it. The price will be assuming it will Not be matted and be Unframed.  If you would like it Matted or Framed, 

Please contact Me for additional information.

I accept ALL MAJOR CREDIT CARDS through PayPal©.  If you would like the portrait mailed to a different address than is associated with your PayPal© account, please pay using a money order.  As I cannot ship to a different address if you pay via Paypal©.

Here’s how it works.

First - Contact me via e-mail and let me know you are interested in getting some work done.

Second - I will reply with a timeline and my home address for you to send photo if you do not have the ability to get the photo on your computer to e-mail it to me.  I may ask for a better photograph if the image isn’t clear so be sure to send a quality photo the first time so as not to delay the process.

Third - Specify what you would like, size, paper, matted, or matted and framed.

Fourth - I will respond with a detailed price description - WE AGREE TO THE TERMS - and you make a payment either by PayPal© or Money Order. Let me know if you are sending a money order.  I will guarantee your money back if you are not satisfied.

Fifth- After payment and quality photo has been received, I will start on your portrait. Completion can take from 1 week to 2 weeks depending on size, and whether or not it is to be matted and or framed.

Sixth – After I have completed the work I will send you a digital image of it via e-mail so it can be approved by you.  This image will have a watermark across it so it cannot be reproduced.  At this point you will let me know if it is acceptable and if it is I will prepare the drawing for shipment.  I can ship it any way you would like, although it will not be rolled in a tube it will be shipped flat unless otherwise requested by you.
I have been working with Prisma Color© Colored Pencil for about 15 years and it is my favorite medium. It is an all-around medium and I have been able to accomplish a great deal of depth and realism.  Give me a chance to earn you business, You will not be disappointed.

Again my contact info is colemancris@gmail.com


Tuesday, April 17, 2012


Please leave comments or suggestions, good or bad.  Once again, we appreciate your feedback.  All of your input helps us make this site, and your experience here better.  Let us know if there is anything we can do for you.  There is a contact form at the bottom right.

Content suggestions are great, we are constantly researching what people want to know but, the best way for us to know what you want is for you to tell us.  We hope to open up our blog to other bloggers to write for us, pass the word of our site.  Get a friend to join our site, have them e-mail us your name and let us know you referred  them here and we will get a FREE OLOE T-SHIRT out to you.

Thank you again for all your support. 
We will keep up the content.

OLOE Team.

Monday, April 16, 2012



  • IRON

Start out by picking your design, you should start with something easy.    Print out your design on a sheet of paper, and trace it onto the curtain using the pencil.  I started out with a black and white image for my small drywall business.  Place the curtain in the craft hoop and make sure it is stretched tight, and centered. Cut off the excess material.

Using the Mod Podge© glue, paint it on everywhere that you DO NOT want the ink on your T-Shirt.  I used sticker letters for the words on the shirt.

 Once the glue dries it is completely water proof and will also stop the ink from going through.  Be sure to paint enough area outside of your design so that the ink doesn't spread past and onto an area where you DO NOT want ink.

The shiny spots are where the dried glue is.

This is what is should look like.  Be sure it is stretched tight. Place the wax paper over the piece of wood, and place the shirt over it with the area you want printed centered over it.

Put the craft hoop with the dried design over your shirt and center the design.  Spread a small amount of the ink on the design and using the squeegee push the design down onto the shirt and slowly with steady pressure,  pull the ink across the design in a single swipe.  I used a squeegee from a Bondo© body filler kit I had in the garage.

Below is a closer picture of the shirt after being printed.

It turned out pretty well for my first attempt, I think.  To set the ink you have to iron it.  I used an old towel between the iron and the shirt to prevent the ink from getting on the iron, there are instructions on the ink bottles.  I got my ink from the local craft store. 

I hope you try this it was pretty fun to do and it has endless possibilities.

Happy Printing!


Sunday, April 15, 2012


Patching a hole in your wall is very easy to do.  This can be handy especially if you’re are renting and need to get your deposit back. I borrowed the images from the web but this is exactly how to patch drywall.

 Start out by cutting the hole into a square.  Don’t cut it bigger than it needs to be.
Insert two small pieces of wood one at a time, or one good sized one, into the hole and pull them tight to the back of the drywall and put two screws in each one as shown below.

Measure and cut a piece of drywall to fit your square and put four screws in it.  Be sure the screw heads are just below the surface of the drywall so they do not protrude through the compound. As shown below.

Purchase mesh joint tape, they sell it in very small rolls so it won’t cost too much.  Apply the tape over the joints, it is self-adhesive so it will stay until you are ready to coat over it.  You will need scissors or a carpenter knife to cut it as it doesn’t tear real easily.

Purchase lightweight drywall compound, I personally like the Plus Three© brand the best.  Using a drywall mud pan and a six inch drywall knife spread the compound over the mesh tape on the seams fully coating the tape approximately 4 to 6 inches wide, let this dry overnight.

Lightly sand the area and using a 10 or 12 in  drywall knife and the lightweight compound completely skim over the entire area until it is smooth.  It should not take too much compound to accomplish this.  Let this dry overnight and check it in the morning, it should be ready for sanding.  

Always use primer on fresh drywall.  The primer performs a couple of functions, it seals your new patch and it also gives the patch some texture from the roller and fills in any sanding marks so it is all one consistent texture, now when it is painted the patch won’t “shine” , if you will.

Paint as desired.


Saturday, April 14, 2012

The Importance Of Cleaning Out Your Gutters

Its’ spring and your gutters have been filling up with debris for a whole year.  It is high time to clean them out.  Cleaning your gutters is important for many reasons...

First let’s start with the obvious, we want the water to run into the gutter and go where it is supposed to.  If the gutter is full of debris this will not happen. 

 Second, if the gutters back up with water and it sits against the wood behind the gutter it will rot out your fascia board.  The gutters will eventually fall off because there will be nothing left to hold them up.   Water will eventually find its way behind your siding and up under your shingles and cause all kinds of moisture related problems.

Third, Erosion, the gutters on your house are not just to stop the rain from falling where you don’t want it to fall.  By redirecting the water we are preventing erosion of the soil next to your house which will create a place for water to accumulate and eventually make its way into your basement; not wanted.

There are a variety of ways to clean your gutters, if you are good with stilts and have a single story home this is a very good way to reach them to pick out the trash. But if you are like most people a ladder will do just fine.  There are a variety of hose attachments available on the market for cleaning your gutters; most are available at your local home improvement stores.

There are also many products made to prevent debris from getting into your gutters.  There are screens, sponges, and shields that are very good ideas but usually don’t work so hot.  The best thing to do is leave off the add-ons and just clean out your gutters each spring.  Most of these products will just get blocked up by the debris, or prevent the water from entering your gutters at all, and you will be cleaning them anyway.

 There are also many attachments for the ends of your downspouts, from roll out ones with sprinkler holes in them to regular old pieces of concrete.  The attachments are designed to prevent erosion and letting the water pool up next to your house.  It is very important to get the water away from your foundation.

Some people catch the rain water from their gutters in a barrel and use it for many household uses.  If you are starting plants indoors for your garden this makes excellent water for them.  Water your pets with this water.  It is very good water even though you wouldn't drink it, your pets won’t mind.  Use it to wash your car, water your garden or your flower pots.  

Saving water is becoming a GREEN thing to do.


Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Home A/C Inspection

It is that time of year to get your A/C inspected.

Now, you could call the nearest HVAC certified contractor to come out and give your system the once over and charge you for many things he did not actually do.  He will tell you your charge was low and he had to clean the condenser and there was a mouse nest in it and they ate some wires or a part was bad...you get the idea - basically the equivalent of an auto repair shop taking advantage of people .
OR you can save a lot of money by doing it yourself.  

Here is a list of things to look for and check out.

The first thing you should do is give your condenser a good visual inspection. The condenser is the unit that sits outside your house, it houses the compressor that moves the refrigerant around the cycle.  The condenser should be level within 10 degrees, this will keep the oil and refrigerant where it is supposed to be.  Take the cover off of the electrical connection box and look for bare wires, mice like to make nests in here and chew the wires.  Open the disconnect box and look for mice nests and bare or loose wires.  Look the fan blades over for any damage. Look at the fins for damage and cleanliness, use a light bristled brush and clean any debris that has accumulated on the surface of the fins. Look at the suction line insulation and make sure there isn't any missing.

Check to be sure your condensation line coming from the "A" coil housing on your furnace is still connected and is still going to its drain. The "A" coil is the evaporator that the refrigerant travels through and is turned from a liquid to a gas as it absorbs the heat from the ambient air passing over the fins. 

 Look at the filter and be sure it doesn't need to be changed.  If there isn't sufficient air flow the evaporator coil inside your furnace will freeze up and there will be no cooling.

Now you should be ready to start the unit up for the first time this season. Switch the selector to cool on your thermostat and set to the desired temperature.  Be sure the disconnect is turned on. The condenser may take a minute to start up so you should have time to get outside by it to listen to how it starts.  listen for any growling or any noises that would indicate a hard start.  This will indicate that your compressor motor is nearing the end of it's life.  Watch to make sure the fan starts and runs at it's full speed.  Feel the suction line under the insulation and make sure it feels cool.  Also feel the liquid line and make sure it feels slightly warm, this could take a few minutes.

If there are inspection ports on your furnace before and after the evaporator, you can check to see what the temperature differential across the coil is, it should be approximately15° to 20° difference for a  regular DX coil in home Central A/C.  If there is not, you can make some by drilling a small hole after the plenum.  the plenum is the piece of duct work that sits directly on top of the "A" coil. thi   This should only be done if you are very confident of where the coil ends inside of the duct work.  If you accidentally puncture the coil you will loose the refrigeration charge, possibly hurt yourself, or others, and need to replace the coil, which is not cheap.  I do not recommend this if your are not confident.  However if you are confident and proceed, just put a small 1/8" hole in the plenum and push a meat thermometer or any thermometer that will fit in it, and see what the air coming from the coil is.  The thermostat will tel you what the temperature before the coil is.

If the temperature difference is way to low you probably WILL nee to call in an expert.  Be sure if you do that they can present you with a HVAC certified contractor license or logo of some sort before you let them touch your system.  there are a great many wanna be contractors out there, they may be cheaper but their work is cheap also.

I hope this will save you some money and that it may have taught you something along the way.

Please feel free to comment or ask any questions, and we will do our best to answer them.


Saturday, April 07, 2012

Time to get out the Lawnmower

Its that time of year again, you may have already gotten your lawn mower out. Be good to your mower and it will last a long time. Before cranking it up be sure to check the oil, clean the old clippings out of the deck, air cleaner, and the cooling fins on the engine.

ONLY add small engine oil not regular motor oil. Small engine oil is straight 30 wieght, regular oil isnt heavy enough and will not protect your engine.

Also check the air cleaner, it gets really dirty in one summer. When is the last time you checked yours?

Have a good summer and happy mowing.

Wednesday, April 04, 2012

How to Replace Vinyl Flooring With Glue-Less Vinyl Flooring

Replacing Old Vinyl Flooring with New Glue-less vinyl Flooring

After a while the old glued vinyl flooring will wear out and need to be replaced.  This is not as daunting of a task as you might think.  It is actually quite easy, when using glue-less vinyl.  Usually the floor will wear anywhere there are chairs or a washing machine first.   These areas have the most pressure associated with the friction on the floor’s wear layer.

First thing you will need to do is measure the area you will need to cover.  Length x Width = the total square footage needed.  Your best bet is to look for a remnant that will fit, that will usually save you about 25% off the sale price, and otherwise you will need to buy it in twelve foot widths.  I only needed 8x13 but had to buy 12x13. 

The second thing you will want to do is prep the floor you will be covering.  There is no need to remove the old flooring; the new vinyl will go right over it with no problems. Remove all the old baseboard trim.  Look for any nails coming through or any cracks, rips, tears, or holes and repair them.  To repair the holes it is recommended that floor leveler be used, but I have found that quick setting drywall compound is a quarter of the price and does the same thing with less shrinkage.  I just mix it up so it is the consistency of toothpaste and spread it on level with the surface to fill any imperfections that might wear through the new floor.  Let it set the recommended amount of time.

The third thing you will want to do is cut it close to the desired size before bringing it into the house.  This will minimize errors and make it easier to handle.  After you get the flooring into the house and positioned close to how you want it, make your first cut.  Always start on a short wall and work your way around.  To cut properly, push down into the corner of the floor and wall with one hand and follow along in the groove with the knife in the other, leaving about ¼ inch space all the way around the edge.  Pulling the knife towards you gently, very little pressure is needed, this stuff cuts easily.  The gap is for expansion and will ensure that your floor will never bunch up or buckle in any way from being too tight between the walls.   The trim will cover the expansion gaps around the edges.

If there is a need to seam the floor, there is seam tape, a rubber cement compound, and a rubber roller that you can buy for seaming the floor.  All you need to do is put one side of the floor over the other side of the floor and cut both pieces at the same time.  Line up the pattern or grout lines so it looks seamless.  This will ensure that the two halves will match perfectly together.  Roll back the two halves and apply the tape to one half, now apply the other half carefully by working your way down the seam.  Now roll the seam with a lot of pressure.  Apply the rubber cement seam filler as directed on the tube.

The last thing you will need to do is put all the trim back on and your done, very easy huh? No glue No mess…

Making a Compressed Air Dryer

Making a Compressed Air Dryer

I have been trying to use my new (Christmas Present) Harbor Freight Bead Blaster Cabinet, and I am having troubles with condensation in the air line. The beads keep clotting up at the nozzle and the suction is gone. I have an inline filter / dryer but there is just no way for it to keep up with the demand. After the compressor runs for a while it heats up and so does the air, which holds moisture as a vapor very well. Once the air travels the thirty feet or so to my blast cabinet it cools off and the moisture precipitates out into the nozzle of the blast gun.

I have been Googling and have come up with several ideas; from putting the air hose in a bucket of ice water to making a home made refrigerated air dryer to using expansion tank to cool off the air and drop out the moisture. I haven't fully decided which way I am going with this, but I think I know which way I am leaning.

I'm going to try mounting an ac condenser out of an old truck on the back side of the compressor motor mount frame, and getting another air tank as an expansion tank. I will pipe the hot air from the compressor's main tank at 125 psi into the ac condenser, having it function as a heat exchanger - dropping temperature, using soft copper pipe and putting a coil or two in it for vibration. Then pipe from the condenser through another regulator into an expansion tank at 90 psi dropping pressure and therefore temperature once again. The air entering the expansion tank will come into the lower portion of the side of the tank. The air leaving the expansion tank will come off the top and go through a filter / moisture separator and out to the shop. I will keep you posted on my progress. See the drawing below.